Free Coin Tips

  1. One of the best ways to save money by selling several hundred or thousands of coins a week is to buy bubble mailers online. They cost a dollar to more than a dollar each at the post office, depending on the size of the mail. What I did was search the Internet for these bubble mailers so you don’t have to waste time searching for them. I get them as cheap as .09 ¢ each! How’s that for savings? Just go to Royal Mailers and put “coinprofits” in the Coupon Code to get your discounts. You can mix and match or just buy one size. They are by far the cheapest on the Internet.
  2. When gold is through the roof, never buy ordinary gold coins. Its values ​​are based on the gold stain. Then their book values ​​increase as gold increases. Once gold falls, they quickly lose their value.
  3. When gold is down, always buy legal tender coins instead of gold bullion or gold coins. Legal tender gold coins can appreciate their value faster than the gold stain, while bullion gold only follows the value of gold.
  4. When buying gold bars, always buy the smallest increment you can buy. These little bars have the largest margin compared to the golden dot. Just make sure it’s 999 fine gold or quantstamp review.
  5. When buying copper coins, always buy “red” samples. Copper collectors go crazy for red copper coins. This is why they always go up in value faster than “brown” and “reddish brown” coins. MAKE SURE IT PROTECTS YOU FROM WEAR IF YOU BUY THEM WIRELESS!
  6. All tiles can indicate that a copper coin is “red-brown”. But this is always a “dubious” attribute. Sometimes it looks a little reddish and sometimes it looks completely brown. So if you have a choice, always select a “redder” specimen. I have seen many “brown” coins labeled “red-brown”, so look carefully before buying.
  7. Always check a copper coin to see if it is actually red if it is labeled “red.” Sometimes they are not red at all. Watch out for coins rated by ANACS. Some ANACS slab copper coins are labeled “red,” although in reality they are only “red-brown.”
  1. Never buy unmarked toned coins if you don’t know what is real toning and what is false toning. It can be easily fooled because there are many different ways to pitch a coin. Many scammers artificially tune coins and rate them on fake sorting companies. Therefore, you should always buy rainbow-hued coins from PCGS, NGC, ANACS, or ICG.
  2. The toned coins are pretty. But, some coins have a tone that doesn’t look very good. I would never buy a coin that has blackened the tone. After this blackening, you hardly see the coin. Therefore, when buying toned coins, never buy coins that are too dark or too light. Always choose coins with strong, bright and vibrant colors.
  3. Some coins have a stain here and there, and some coins are completely spotless. It is in your best interest to buy completely “white” coins. These are easier to sell because many collectors want their coins to be virtually flawless. This is a must have for some of the newer coins, like Silver Eagles.
  4. Proof coins are always grade sensitive. They tend to lose a lot of their value if they are not proof 69 or better. It is better to buy a rough specimen than a 68 degree proof coin. It is not worth buying a 68 degree proof coin because test coins generally have an average proof of 69+. So you end up paying a premium because it’s qualified, but you don’t get anything in return. You even lose the box and the COA. You could have paid less for an unclassified specimen that is likely to turn out to be a 69th test or higher.

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